Cologne
Kölsch etiquette, brewhouses over bars, and a confusing local train network
Cologne is a brewhouse city, and once you accept that the drinking and the eating happen in the same rooms, the rest of the trip organises itself.
Restaurants
- Früh: in the city centre, fairly touristy, and still a great classic. The only one of the big Kölsch brands we tried, and it was very nice.
- Brauwelt Köln: a more classic beer garden that brews its own. Basic food, great mood, great beer. Much less known than the big names, smaller, and worth the detour.
- Udum: a great vegan Asian option, and cheap.
Bars
No standalone bar stayed with me. The drinking happens in the Brauhäuser and beer gardens above, most of which serve food too.
- Hommage: a chill coffee shop with good speciality coffee.
Hotels
- 25hours The Circle: a very cool hotel with everything you could need and more. Well situated and well priced.
Shops
Stop at a DM if you are not used to them. The cosmetics and health products are very cheap.
Attractions
- Rhein-Seilbahn: a cute cable car ride connecting the zoo and botanical garden to the Rheinpark. You pass directly over the Claudius Therme and get a good look at it.
- Claudius Therme: I did not go, but I had a tour of it and it looks extremely good. Still on my list.
- Hiroshima-Nagasaki-Park: a nice walk, and worth the stop if you are nearby.
Still on my list
Left for a future trip: the Dom tower climb, the museums (Ludwig, Römisch-Germanisches, and the Schokoladenmuseum) and the Belgisches Viertel and Ehrenfeld side of town. I have no opinion on any of them yet.
Tips
- Kölsch etiquette. In the brewhouses that keep the old rules, the Köbes refills your glass automatically and will keep going indefinitely. To stop, put the beer mat on top of your glass. If you obviously look like a tourist they may ask first, then go back to the automatic refills once they see you know how it works. The bars that still do this tend to be the best ones.
- Transport needs care. Getting around on the surface is normal, but the local train network out of the Hauptbahnhof is confusing and the ticketing app is not easy either. Check what you are buying and budget extra time.
